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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end names. However, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary achievement.